The sleepy seaside town of Positano, with its winding bougainvillea lined streets, crystal clear turquoise waters, days spent lounging on the beach with an Aperol spritz in hand, and dining on fresh seafood and lemon risotto as the sun sets on the Mediterranean.

Where to Stay:

I spent many hours painstakingly reviewing the various places to stay in Positano with my most important factor being a place with an elevated view of the town and Mediterranean, but still accessible by foot to the beach without hundreds of steep steps. It was also important to me to have the view of the main iconic area of Positano (the view with the church dome and Mediterranean in the distance).

• For the view on a budget: Casa Dama B&B
  • For traveling to Positano on a budget, while not sacrificing views and comfort in the process. You basically have the same view as Le Sirenuse for a fraction of the cost!
  • Two private rooms to choose from – Blue or Yellow. Both with the same balcony views and hosted by ‘superhost’ Daniela, who provided breakfast each morning and recommendations around town.
  • This location is only accessible by steps from the main road – keep this in mind when booking and especially if you plan to travel with large bags.
  • We had coffee on our balcony each morning and a bottle of wine for apertivo each late afternoon.

Morning to Evening views at Casa Dama B&B:

• For the view with a splurge: Hotel Poseidon
  • The most beautiful view in Positano – family-run, multiple room types to choose from, expansive terrace with a pool, and popular restaurant + cocktail bar (Il Tridente), and view of the front the Positano church/dome (Le Sirenuse’s view is the back of the church!)
  • This hotel is located on the main road in Positano (Viale Pastiea) – meaning you will have easy access for transport in/out of town and will always have a paved street path to the beach (as opposed to narrow, steep steps). Do not underestimate how important it is to give your feet a break from the steps and take a winding road to + from your hotel, especially after a long beach day in the sun. There is also a bus stop right across from the hotel!
  • The book ‘One Italian Summer‘ was written and based at this hotel – talk about a great beach read to bring on this trip!

Arrival Day:

• Book ahead for the Positano Shuttle Bus, from the Naples airport or train station, for easy, inexpensive and safe travel into Positano without having the stress of renting (and parking) a car. Do NOT rent a car – the roads in and around Positano are narrow and along the seaside cliffs – stressful for even the best driver! Once in town, you can get around Positano by foot, bus, and boat.
• Once arriving in Positano, drop your bags, get out and walk! You can either walk through Positano along the narrow streets, or the pedestrian only paths and stairwells. Make sure to wear comfy shoes for the major uphill and downhill climbing from the town to the seaside.
• “Every trip to Positano should start with a meal at Bucca di Bacco” – a British couple told us on our flight to Naples. This hotel + restaurant has been around since 2016 and boats stunning views of the Mediterranean and is in the heart of the main area of town – a great place for dinner on your first night, especially if timed around sunset.

Views from Positano Shuttle drive into Positano through Sorrento

Positano by Day:

The Beach Day, The Capri Day, and the Adventure Day.

The Beach Day

Hopefully you have multiple days to spend in Positano to soak in the dolce vita. Start with an espresso and pastries at the neighborhood patiserre into lounging seaside at one of the beaches and eventually cooling off with a dip into the Mediterranean or with a bottle of rosé . Below outlines how to make the most of the beach experience at Positano, with sightseeing and food along the way.

• Grab espressos and breakfast from the patisserie counter at La Zagara. You could also grab sandwiches and a bottle of wine to bring to the beach for lunch.

• Walk down the bougainvillea lined Via dei Mulini street to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, the town’s iconic domed church, to visit the Black Madonna. This wooden icon was brought to Positano in the 13th century by sailors from the Byzantine Empire and is considered a local treasure.

• Walk down the steps (all downhill steps in Positano will end up here) to the iconic seaside, Positano Spiaggia, the main beach you’ll recognize from the Gray Malin photos.
• Plan to rent beach chairs and umbrellas for the day, for 30 Euro on average. You do not need to do this in advance, but make sure to arrive by around 10 am for a prime seaside spot. Although there is a free public beach space, it’s narrow and crowded. Since the beach is rocky, you will want to rent chairs as opposed to laying out on a towel or blanket.
• Pack water shoes and goggles to fully enjoy the beach experience. Due to the coast’s volcanic past, the beach is rocky. Water shoes will help protect your feet from the hot, sharp, uneven rocks. Goggles will allow you to marvel under the clear, turquoise water of the Mediterranean!
• For lunch, you can either grab to-go pizza or sandwiches at the various cafes lining the beach, or take a break from the beach and grab a bite at the seaside seafood restaurants Chez Black or Bucca di Bacco. Always bring a couple pieces of clothing/towels (not valuable) that can be left on the chairs to indicate they are still in-use.
• After the beach, stop by Ceramica Assunta for shopping the iconic hand-painted Positano ceramics. Options for both the checked bag and carry-on bag travelers – we went with a ceramic spoon rest that’s been a staple in our kitchen for years!

BONUS (FAVORITE) TIP – SECRET BEACH!

If looking to get away from the crowds and are up for an adventure to what we called “our secret beach”, map to Fornillo Beach. This beach is walking distance from the main drag, on the other side of the cliff from Positano. Although it does not boast the same picturesque Positano backdrop views, the vistas are stunning not only from the beach but especially on the adventurous paved (safe) hike along the cliff you will take there! Grab lunch at Da Ferdinando and then rent your beach chairs + umbrellas directly from the restaurant. You can also order food + gelato to your chair. We enjoyed the main Positano beach for our first day, but spent the rest of our beach days at Fornillo away from the crowds and fully soaking in the Dolce Vita!

The Capri Day

You cannot visit the Amalfi Coast without a day-trip (minimum) to the island of Capri. If staying in Positano, I’d recommend booking a private or shared small boat tour to Capri. for the day, as opposed to taking the crowded ferry. The trip by boat to Capri is approximately 1.5 hours, with stops for swims along the way, and is worth the trip itself for the stunning views of the Amalfi coastline from the turquoise waters. We found our boat tour on Viator. We skipped the ‘grotto’ tours to maximize our time on the island and to avoid the crowds, especially since the success of these tours is dependent on the weather / tides. Make sure to book a tour that includes light bites + lunch + drinks to enjoy and time for a dip into the water!

Once arriving in Capri, do not spend much time near the port. Head up the funicular to marvel at the true beauty of Capri at the top of the island. Grab a gelato and walk the cobblestone streets and sprawling gardens. Stop for lunch for an obligatory Caprese salad at its birthplace!

Bonus tip – skip the return trip on the funicular and instead take a winding, flower-lined cobblestone, downhill path from the top of Capri to the port.

The Adventure Day (Path of the Gods)

• No trip to the Amalfi coast would be complete without a trek on the Path of the Gods – one of the most beautiful hikes at the top of the world!
• There are a few recommended routes to reach the ‘start’ of this hike, one of which being a 2-hr trek via bus or ferry to Amalfi and then another bus to Bomerano. Instead, we opted to start on our hike in the town of Nocelle, accessible by a short bus ride (~20 min) from Positano.
• By starting in Nocelle, we walked through town (Map to Via Pizzillo, 2, 84017 Positano SA, Italy) to a set of steps that led to the start of the hike, under the painted sign ‘Sentiero degli Dei’. We took the path along the coastline until the trail went inland towards Bomerano, and double backed to Nocelle to catch our bus back to Positano. This way, we enjoyed the most beautiful moments of the hike 2x.
• The hike is moderately strenuous, with a mix of sections with sun + coastline views, and others walking through the shaded woods. Our route took us 3.5 hours roundtrip from the bus stop.
• We brought sandwiches from La Zagara to enjoy along the hike, multiple water bottles, and Evian spray to cool-down.
• Leave time to indulge in multiple lemon ices at the finish, at a stand that is setup near the bus stop back into Positano.

Positano by Night:

Apertivo

• Every evening in Positano must start with apertivo (Italian happy hour) at a cocktail bar with stunning views of the Mediterranean. Our favorite place to visit is Il Tridente on the Hotel Poseidon’s rooftop terrace for their self described experience as, “at sunset, watching the twinkling lights of Positano and the candles and lights lighting up the terraces of the households, the atmosphere is nothing short of magical.” Their cocktails come with complimentary apps and light bites (a true apertivo!) You could also plan to stay here for dinner, but make sure to book ahead if not staying at the hotel. The cocktail bar is open from 6:30 pm-1 am.

View from Il Tridente cocktail hour, from sunset to full moon rise

• Alternatively, you can try snagging a spot at Franco’s Bar at the Le Sirenuse hotel – no reservations needed, but prepare to arrive with plenty of time before the sunset. Although this hotel is known as the most expensive + exclusive in Positano, it’s family-run and still has a welcoming, approachable atmosphere. That being said, their sunset tables have a drink minimum, and drinks will cost upwards of 25 Euro.

Dinner

• Il Tridente for the best view of Positano and the Mediterranean, and easy transition from apertivo into dinner at Hotel Poseidon (outdoor).

• Casa Mele for Michelin-style tasting menu with innovative dishes covering the full array of Italian cuisine (indoor).

• Bucca di Bacco for a seafood restaurant at the base of Positano, steps from the beach, that has been around for over a 100-years.

• Al Palazzo for pasta under the bougainvillea, lemon trees, and twinkling string lights at the Palazzo Murat hotel (outdoor).
• La Sponda for an upscale experience with possible celeb sightings and a hard-to-snag reservation at the Le Sirenuse hotel (indoor/outdoor). Must book ahead!
• Adamo ed Eva for rooftop pasta and seafood while overlooking the Mediterranean.

Going Out

• Fly Bar for cocktails on a cliffside rooftop, right above where the waves meet the Positano beach. Great place for cocktails before heading downstairs to the Music on the Rocks club for dancing.
• Music on the Rocks located underneath the Fly Bar, venture down the steps to the most popular + famous place to go out into Positano. This club is nested within the cliffside and a great place to dance + drink the night away, and burn off the pasta.